Stàra Làkana

by Phil Palzer and Rata Lovell-Smith

  • River Destinations

The locals call out: “Vazaha! Vazaha!” ( “Whites people”) We walk down the street. It’s busy, there are so many people. Everyone is working hard just to live. The local boys are welding in bare feet with no safety glasses. We stand out like sore thumbs. It’s busy, but it doesn’t have the smell like India.

Madagascar has been on our minds ever since Shanny and the boys got back 10 years ago. This year Phil and I decided we would go, even without a team. Word got around that the young fellas, Riley, Eli and Benj, were going. We asked if they wouldn’t mind a couple of washed up 30 year olds joining them. There were lots of cool things about this trip, but going with those boys was one of the best parts. Mada is sad and beautiful at the same time. The poverty is confronting. Women and children struggle to survive in the city. To them, a vazaha brings hope that they might get enough money for food. The villages close to the river have little to no money. They work from dawn until dusk, and their children work hard too. But their smiles radiate a good life. There must be a lesson in that… The trip was full of big emotions, at times it was overwhelming, and at others so much stoke! The kayaking is good when you get it, and yes, there is so much flat water! We had everything from low water to flooded rivers. Here’s a grassroots Captain Phil account of our trip through Madagascar.

Being good people to be on the water with is more important than being the best kayaker. Quote of the trip “Never be wishing for the next moment, because it could be worse.” — Hendi

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